An oriental gem in the pontifical tiara - the Greek Abbey at Grottaferrata

One of the gems of the Castelli Romani area, less than an hour south-east of Rome, is the town of Grottaferrata. Often overshadowed by its more famous neighbour, Frascati, this town has a rich history going back over 1000 years. It even saw changes requested by a Cardinal who would go on to become one of the most famous Popes in history.

Probably the best known place of interest in Grottaferrata is the Greek Abbey of Saint Nilus, also known as the Exarchic Monastery of Saint Mary. Run by the order of the Basilian Monks, it is one of the few religious structures in Italy recognised by the Catholic Church despite being of the Byzantine-Greek rite.

The abbey’s origins date back to just 50 years before the Schism of 1054 and the ensuing separation between the Eastern and Western churches. The founders were a group of Calabrian monks led by Saint Nilus. The saint’s family were of Greek origin and his homeland of Calabria was under Byzantine rule in that period which meant that the Greek language and culture were commonplace in the area.

Saint Nilus had intended to make his way to Rome but, upon reaching the Tuscolo Hills, both he and his follower Saint Bartholomew had a vision of the Virgin Mary who asked them to build a church in her honour at the site in which they found themselves.

Unfortunately, Saint Nilus was close to the end of his life so it was Saint Bartholomew who oversaw the building project during the following 20 years. Pope John XIX consecrated the church on December 17th 1024.

As the centuries passed more structures were added giving us the church, a monastery, a printing house and a cultural centre to name but just a few of the services found. In 1482, Cardinal Giuliano della Rovere (the future Pope Julius II who commissioned Michelangelo to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel) made some dramatic changes to the church and monastery by constructing fortifications all around the site. His plan included sloping walls, towers and a drawbridge. Perhaps he was worried about possible enemies in Rome and wanted to have a defensive point ready!  

Various popes have shown their respect and appreciation for the Abbey of Saint Nilus through the years. One such pope was Pope Leo XIII, in the late 19th century, who much loved Grottaferrata and the rest of the Castelli Romani area. His appreciation extended to the fine wines of the zone that, he declared, “cheer the soul and wipe away cares”. As regards the Abbey, he referred to it as “an oriental gem in the pontifical tiara”.

Come and discover for yourselves the beauty of this unique place. You will not be disappointed and you will discover the other surprises that Grottaferrata has in store for its visitors.

Written by: Robert Coghlan

Photo by: Robert Coghlan