Visit ESTE and discover nobility, intriguing architecture and a ghost

The town of Este in the Veneto region of north eastern Italy may be relatively unknown compared to nearby Padua or Venice, but it has still managed to leave an important impression on history.

The earliest known impact was the ESTE or ATESTINE CULTURE that existed from the late Bronze Age in Italy until the first century BC. The area became a centre of metalworking and gave birth to SITULAE ART, traditionally decorated with animals and ribbons. Probably the most famous extant example of this art is the Benvenuti Situla, dating back to 600BC. It is now on display in the Museo Nazionale Atestino in Este, near the Villa Contarini.

Villa Contarini with its beautiful frescoes has passed through various families from the Contarini (who held the property until about 1821) to the current owners, the Caporali family. In 1821, ownership of the villa passed over to Christian August Heinrich Kurt Graf von Haugwitz, better known as the Count of Haugwitz. The local population of Este named him “The Prussian” as the Count had been the Foreign Minister of Prussia during the Napoleonic Wars. Unfortunately, the Count died during a visit to Venice in 1832 and his remains returned to Este. A tombstone with a dedication written in French is at the base of one of the towers of the castle on the villa grounds. According to tradition, however, his body was buried standing upright (as the Count himself had requested) facing towards Villa Kunkler. What was the reason for this unusual choice? Villa Kunkler was the residence of the young Baroness Kunkler for whom the Count had more than a soft spot. This love went unanswered and this was a source of sadness for the Count of Haugwitz right up until his death. Legend says that his ghost wanders around on spring nights as he continues to lament his unrequited love for the young Baroness.

A famous 16^th century figure who held the name of the town as well as that of his family was the Cardinal Ippolito (II) d’Este. He was the second child of Duke Alfonso I d’Este and Lucrezia Borgia. This made him a grandson of Pope Alexander VI. Ippolito built his famous impressive residence in Tivoli, just outside of Rome, which he filled with ancient Roman statues removed from the Emperor Hadrian’s villa in the same town. Nowadays, this residence is famous for its fountains and amazing gardens: Villa D’Este.

Nowadays, Este is worth exploring with many interesting and curious building. The Duomo with its incomplete façade, the Church of San Martino with its leaning bell tower and various tombs to name but a few of the places worth visiting. I'll talk again soon about Este but what are you waiting for? Este is waiting for you.

Written by: Robert Coghlan
Photos courtesy of: R.E. Weaver